Altering & Tailoring

Since most clothing is mass produced, retail stores cater to “average” body types. If you are a petite size, plus sized, or really tall like me, you might find yourself shopping at specialty shops.  However, even if you fall into the “average” category or have a body shape which doesn’t necessarily fit into the mold, you will most likely find that you need to adjust or customize store-bought clothes according to your particular body. Every body is different and whether you are sewing brand new garments or adjusting ones you own or purchase, knowing how to alter clothing can come in super handy.

Every-day Alterations

Simple alterations such as hemming, taking clothes in/out, or adjusting darts might seem minute, but a tiny adjustment can make a huge difference and drastically improve an ill-fitting garment. And what’s even better is that anyone can easily learn how to take up or release a hem on a pair of pants or a skirt (at times, a sewing machine is not even necessary!).

Tailoring

Besides mastering tricks when constructing a garment, I believe every sewer/seamstress should be as good, if not better, at tailoring a piece of clothing simply because the main focus in this process is fit. Popular tailoring techniques include: waist adjustments, adding darts, changing, adding or removing sleeves, and adjusting shoulders. Depending on the amount of adjustments, you will most likely have a garment that fits you exclusively.      

Mending/Repairing

Other common mending/repair alterations include: fixing broken zippers, patching up a rip, blind-sewing a tear, or replacing a lining. Accidents happen, and you’ll save time and money if you know how to fix these boo-boos on your own.

Curious about learning how to alter your clothes? Send me your questions and comments below!

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on July 28, 2014

Make It Yourself: Gym Shorts Into Dressy Duds

It's not too warm outside here, but it must be HOT somewhere! If you're a DIY lover, live in a sunny place AND if you're absolutely tired of your workout shorts, turn them into to-die-for shorts with sheer panels. You can rock these dressy duds to the club with a crop top and pumps or to the office with a tucked-in blouse and loafers. Go on, show off those long stems you've got!     

Supplies

1 pair of gym shorts

¼ yd sheer mesh fabric

marking pencil

measuring tape

thread

scissors

STEP 1 

To create high-waisted shorts, take in/adjust the side seams accordingly. The process will vary whether your shorts have an actual waistband or an elastic one.  

STEP 2

Mark the placement of the sheer panels with a marking pencil by measuring on the side seams of the shorts. Use the same measurement to guide your measuring tape along the hem and mark around the pant legs which will be the cutting lines.

STEP 3

Cut pieces of the sheer fabric to make inserts for front (2) and back (2) of the shorts. Sew together (or serge – depending on the fabric of your shorts) the front and back pieces. You should end up with a tubular piece of mesh for each pant leg. 

STEP 4

Cut on the cutting lines. (Keep the bottom pieces of the pant legs.)

STEP 5

Sew/serge the mesh inserts to the shorts. Then sew the bottom pieces of the pant legs to the mesh. 

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on July 21, 2014

Sewing Menswear

Let’s face it – most of the sewers out there belong to the female species. Gals who love to sew usually sew clothes for themselves or their girlfriends, and once in awhile they might whip up a men’s tie or a fancy handkerchief for accessorizing.

If you want to explore the menswear realm, whether you are a lady or a gent, begin by using this easy guide:

Starter Projects

Start with a vest or a pair of shorts and then slowly transition into making trousers, a dress shirt, or a jacket. Much like any other sewing project, you’ll gain confidence and develop skill along the way. You can also try altering a few garments, as opposed to making a piece from scratch, to familiarize yourself with various patterns.   

Fitting a Garment

If you cannot get access to a man dress form, sew something for your guy friend (or boyfriend, brother, dad, etc.) to get used to fitting a garment on a men’s body. Unlike the curvaceous body of a woman, men can do without darts and defined waistlines. In a sense, this will make it easier to fit men’s clothing in certain areas.   

Techniques

The most common techniques you might want to practice for casual or formal attire include: tailoring techniques, flat-felled seams, buttonholes, zipper installation, edge stitching, and top stitching.

Research resources and tips before you attempt a new project. And practice! - That’s always a key ingredient. Good luck!    

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on August 21, 2014

Make It Yourself: Tank Top Into A Headband

Take your silk jersey tank and transform it into a chic-a-licious head band! Use Jennifer Behr’s chevron headband (pictured here) as inspiration to make your own headpiece.

jimmyjazz.com

SUPPLIES

1 tank top

1 black plastic headband

glue gun

hand sewing needle

thread

scissors

Step 1

Cut pieces of the tank top to use for the headband. Keep aside two small rectangular pieces (1 ½” x 1 ½”) which will be used to finish the ends of the headband later on.    

Step 2

Take the headband and start wrapping the fabric around until the headband underneath is fully covered. Use the glue gun to keep the fabric in place. 

Step 3

Use another piece of the tank top fabric to start shaping the tucks and folds of the headband. Once you’ve achieved the desired look, use the hand sewing needle and thread to sew a few tacks to keep the shape.

Step 4

Take the two rectangular pieces of fabric and glue them onto the ends of the headband. Fold in and glue to the ends for a smooth finish.

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on June 23rd, 2014

How To Replicate A Garment

If you own a piece of clothing that you would love to have an exact copy of, whether the original is just past its prime or you simply lust for a duplicate made out of a different fabric, you, my sewing friend, are in luck because I’ve got a few tips for you!

Before you begin prepping your project, keep a few things in mind which will assure you have the least amount of speed bumps along the way.

PATTERN

You can easily make a new pattern out of your existing piece without taking the garment apart by transferring it onto paper. Carefully use a tracing wheel to trace around each panel, label the pattern pieces and add seam allowance, and you’re good to go! The pattern is, of course, reusable, which is an added bonus.   

FABRIC

To ensure the new garment you will sew will drape the same way as your already existing one, plan accordingly. If you are thinking of making a total copy of your garment, choose a similar fabric. On the other hand, if you want to sew the new garment out of a different fabric, pick any fabric, just similar in weight.

TOOLS & MACHINE SETTINGS

Research your fabric to find out if you require any special tools or notions, then grab them on your next fabric store run. Adjusting your machine settings for the kind of fabric you are using will make a significant difference in the final product. You can test the tension and thread length on a test piece before you begin.

Hope your cloned garment comes as close as possible to the one you already own!

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on June 16th, 2014

Sewing Clothes For Your Body Type

Whether you follow the latest trends or set your own, knowing which garments suit your body shape is key to feeling comfortable in your own (clothed!) skin.  And if you just happen to sew your own clothes, then you absolutely know that every pattern may not be the right fit for you. Since everyone is a different shape and size, identifying which styles of clothing will complement your frame comes with ease if you are familiar with your body type.

The most common body types are pear (or bell), apple (or triangle), banana (or straight), and hourglass. Next time you’re picking up a pattern, keep a few things in mind according to your body type:

APPLE

If you have a larger bust and/or broader shoulders than your hips, make darker coloured blouses and jackets. Pair that up with a pant or skirt with interesting patterns to create an overall balance. 

PEAR

Hips broader than shoulders? Sew brightly coloured tops and dark or neutral bottoms. Give strapless dresses a try – to show off your petite shoulders, of course!  

BANANA

If your waistline is not defined and the top and bottom of your body are almost the same size, add dimension by making voluminous clothing such as gathered skirts or shirts with puffy sleeves. Include a belt with your outfit which can help create an illusion of a more distinct waist.

HOURGLASS

You have a defined waistline and even width of shoulders and hips, which means  you can wear patterns on top and bottom to keep a balance throughout. Try sewing a pencil skirt to flaunt your curves.   

The tips mentioned here are nowhere near “rules” you have to live by. You can simply follow them to enhance your figure by giving it some balance. 

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on May 19th, 2014

Learn To Sew At Your Own Pace

Now that you’ve completed the Introductory Sewing class at The Sewing Studio, are you wondering which course to take next? Introductory Sewing 2 could be just what you need!

Building confidence on the machine and honing your skills is your main goal and Introductory Sewing 2 offers just that! You will get guidance and assistance on new patterns and explore a variety of garments. Your instructor will review topics you’ve covered in Introductory Sewing such as: fabric fundamentals, laying out, cutting, and marking your fabric, as well as adjusting a pattern. Once you’re ready to go, you can jump into making a skirt, a pair of pants, a jacket or even a dress! A list of recommended patterns will be provided so that you can choose a style all your own.  And who knows – if you’re dedicated enough, you might even complete more than one piece in class.

Introductory Sewing 2 allows you to dictate the pace and difficulty of the project. Since you are used to the sewing machine and can pretty much kind-of-sort-of navigate your way through a pattern after completing Introductory Sewing, IS2 is a great stepping stone before you try to tackle an advanced class.

Register for an Introductory Sewing 2 class today and sew up a storm!

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on April 17th, 2014

Repurposing Your Clothes

Who doesn’t love shopping for new clothes? You get to try on skirts, pants, and tops and figure out how these brand new items will fit in with the rest of your wardrobe. What if I told you to skip the store and go shopping in your closet?! Crazy, right? Not really! Everyone always has clothing waiting to get dumped right around spring cleaning time, exchanged at a clothing swap, or lent out to a BFF – and you know those clothes are probably never going to be returned (maybe years later, if you’re lucky!). Repurpose these forgotten garments and turn them into something you’ll wear over and over again. Here’s how:

KEEP SENTIMENTAL ITEMS

You and your denim button up shirt have been through so much: windy summer days, casual Fridays at work, and don’t forget about the great recovery from that hot sauce stain! Keep that baby around and recreate it into a skirt with an elastic waistband or a fringed vest. You’ll get to keep a piece of something you already love and wear it as a totally new garment.

SPRUCE UP CLASSICS

That pencil skirt is your trademark, but let’s face it – it sure could use a little special something to freshen it up. Sew a fun belt to add to your classic skirt or add side seam slits to make it more interesting.

MODERNIZE    

I don’t know about you guys, but I definitely have a retro section in my boudoir. I love mixing oldies with current pieces for a one-of-a-kind look. You can even try utilizing pieces of your old school gear to add character to modern ones.

Repurposing your clothes can be a fun way to explore your imagination and get creative with your wardrobe. You’ll get to keep your favourites and make (somewhat) new pieces. Well, I’m off to use my Fresh Prince of Bel-Air shorts to make funky lining pockets in a jacket. Gotta go! 

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on April 23, 2014

Beginner Sewing Workshop

If you are looking to learn sewing essentials, but don’t have a lot of spare time on your hands, Beginner Basics might be just what you need! Beginner Basics is a one-time three-hour based Specialty Workshop offered at The Sewing Studio. You will learn sewing basics such as: threading a machine, winding and loading a bobbin, sewing straight seams, and installing a regular zipper.

Beginner Basics is appropriate for beginners (duh!), but also those who have not sewn in some time and need a refresher. It’s also great for sewing enthusiasts who may have a machine at home and have no clue how to go about tackling it. In this workshop, you are sure to get comfortable on the machine and will be sewing in no time! Once you’ve completed the workshop, you will be a proud owner of a zippered toiletry bag. 

And guess what? You workshop fee includes: use of machines and sewing tools, all supplies, as well as a  gift card to use for any future course you want to take at The Sewing Studio. Great deal or what?!

Register for a Beginner Basics workshop coming up on May 10th! This workshop is suitable for all sewing stars 15 years of age and up. Seating is limited and pre-registration is required, so make sure you save your spot.  See you there!

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on April 1, 2014

Fast Lanes

Fast Lanes by mssew featuring oversized sunglasses

White shirt
chiarafashion.co.uk

STELLA JEAN trench coat
modaoperandi.com

Issey Miyake pants
anastasiaboutique.com

Alaïa leather boots
$970 - theoutnet.com

Kate Spade clutch
couture.zappos.com

Henri Bendel earrings
henribendel.com

Illesteva oversized sunglasses
thedreslyn.com

Oasis leopard print scarve
$20 - oasis-stores.com

Nail polish
sephora.com

How To Adjust A Pattern

As most of you sewing fanatics have come to find out, purchasing a commercial pattern in your size is not always a safe bet. Even though the pattern guarantees the piece of clothing you will make will fit like a glove, sometimes, this “glove” ends up fitting more like a mitten.

Since most commercial patterns usually need some alterations, knowing how to adjust a pattern prior to construction is a useful skill and very much a necessary one to have.  The steps listed below will outline the essentials of adjusting a pattern.  Let’s get to it!

MEASUREMENTS

Accurate body measurements are key  when selecting a pattern. Take and record your measurements periodically to ensure your sizing will be correct before buying a pattern. In relation to the type of garment you will be sewing, keep a chart of your measurements and the date and update it once in awhile.

PATTERN COPY

If you need to make any pattern modifications and want to preserve the original pattern, trace a copy! This way, you will always have the original as a reference.  

EASE

For wearability, each pattern has a certain amount of ease. Although the amount of ease is not always specified on the pattern envelope, it should be noted on each pattern piece. This will tell you how much “allowance” each garment has, so you can subtract and/or add accordingly.

WHERE TO ADJUST

Knowing exactly where to adjust the pattern exclusively for your body type is crucial when attempting to achieve the ideal fit. This skill takes time to develop, since you will need to sew a few garments (or muslins) in order to take note of which areas need improvement. Great news is, once you have figured out which revisions you need to make, you can apply this to most patterns in the future.

 Follow these four fundamental steps and slowly but surely, you’ll have garments that fit you just right in all the right spots! Send me your questions and comments about adjusting patterns below!

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on March 17, 2014

Make A Shirtdress From An Oversized Shirt

Use an oversized denim shirt to make a dress! Add an embroidery detail for a super girly effect.

SUPPLIES

1 oversized denim button-up shirt

embroidered fabric to add on (or you can use decorative stitches on your machine to create your own design)

piece of lace trim (for collar detail)

½” wide elastic (length of your waist + 1”)

pins

seam ripper

marking pencil

scissors

INSTRUCTIONS

STEP 1

Armholes & Sleeves: Since the shirt is oversized, check if the armholes need to be brought up to sit on your shoulders properly and if the sleeves need to be taken in. If so, using a seam ripper, take apart the sleeves from the armholes and adjust the armholes to your measurements. Take in the sleeves, adjust (if need be), and then sew back into the armholes.

STEP 2
Mark the waistline on the wrong side of the shirt using the marking pencil.

STEP 3
Place the elastic on top of the waist marking. Slightly pull the elastic as you stitch along each edge.

STEP 4

Place the embroidery detail fabric on your shirt, pin, and then edge stitch along each piece. 
* To create an embroidery design instead of using fabric, use the decorative stitch options on your machine.

STEP 5
Pin the right side of the lace trim to the wrong side of the collar edge, then edge stitch. 

#DIYeverything

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on March 25, 2014

Can't You Hear Me Knocking?

Can't You Hear Me Knocking? by mssew featuring night out tops

Isa Arfen night out top
modaoperandi.com

Michael Kors pants
marissacollections.com

Iron Fist purple pumps
heels.com

Nicole Miller miniature purse
nicolemiller.com

Feather jewelry
etsy.com

Black glasses
shoptiques.com

Manic Panic black lipstick
bluebanana.com

Organize Your Wardrobe

Getting ready to go out? But dread the idea of having to pick out an outfit from your closet because it’s an absolute catastrophe? Have no fear! I am going to share with you a few simple organizing tips.

If you didn’t already know, besides being a sewing instructor, I am a personal wardrobe stylist. In addition to creating new looks and mapping out a plan for achieving particular styles, I help ladies and gents organize their closet spaces while teaching them how to easily put together outfits. Over the years, I have noticed a similar issue with clients: a wardrobe with many impressive pieces that lacks consistency, simplicity, and order. This can be easily fixed with these 3 rules:

CREATE A SYSTEM

To stay organized; create a system that will work for you in order to keep your wardrobe from going back to a state of disaster. Try grouping all tops together; tanks, T-shirts, long sleeved shirts, buttons-ups, and jackets. Do the same for bottoms: pants, trousers, shorts, and skirts. And finally, keep dresses and rompers side-by-side.

COORDINATE

Once you have sorted your clothing by type, go through each group and place all the clothes in the same color families together. This way, when you are looking for a red top, you will know exactly where to find it.

PLAN OUTFITS AHEAD OF TIME

Some people can dress up in the spur of the moment by diving into their wardrobes and putting on whatever feels right at the time. If this does not sound like you, try planning outfits ahead of time from clothes to accessories. This way, all you have to do is take the outfit off the hanger, throw it on, and you can be on your way.

Now that your wardrobe is on its way to being in tip-top shape, you will no longer need to dread the idea of choosing an outfit. And you won’t miss those delicious hors d’oeuvres because you’ll actually get to the party on time!

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on March 3, 2014

Quick Start Your Way Into The Sewing World

So, you want to learn how to sew, right? You’ve been thinking about signing up for a sewing course to get the basics down pat. Or maybe you haven’t sewn in awhile and want to get back into it. You want to join a sewing class to build your confidence on the sewing machine. Sound about right? What you need in your life is a Quick Start sewing class at The Sewing Studio!

If you are unable to fit an 8-week Introductory Sewing course into your schedule, not to worry – you can register for a Quick Start class which is half the duration and just as fun! In this 4-week course, you will get an in-depth lesson on machine functions, you’ll learn new stitches, sew buttonholes and buttons that won’t budge, and make projects which will be useful but also act as steppingstones if you would like to venture out into making more difficult ones. Pretty awesome or what?

This course is also great for those who are unsure about sewing and just want to try it out. Quick Start is a great way to test out your love for sewing. Or if you’ve completed Introductory Sewing and are on the fence about taking an intermediate course next, Quick Start is a great way to get more machine time and perfect your sewing skills since it is a project-based class.

Two hours every week for four weeks to learn all of that? Yes, it’s that easy. Register today!

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on February 27, 2014

Make It Yourself: Faux Fur Vest

Use an old throw to make a warm and stylish faux fur vest which will resemble the Nordstrom one shown below. You’ll stay super cozy and PETA definitely won’t be chasing you!

Supplies

1 old throw

lining

pins

hand sewing needle

thread

scissors

STEP 1

Cut out pieces for the vest: back (1) and front (2).

*TIP: To get the perfect edge when cutting faux fur, do not cut pile right on the designated cutting line. This will leave an abrupt edge. The pile is attached to another fabric (usually a woven). Use the tips of your scissors to cut only the root of the woven fabric without disrupting the pile. Brush off any excess fur pile before sewing. To prevent bulkiness and create a clean (furry) edge, ensure the pile is tucked in between the two pieces of fabric that will be getting sewn together.

STEP 2

Cut lining pieces - same as Step 1: back (1) and front (2).

STEP 3

With right sides together, attach the front and back shoulder seams using a 5/8" seam allowance. 

STEP 4

Repeat Step 3 for lining.

STEP 5

To attach the lining to the vest, with right sides together, pin: around the collar, down center front, around armholes, the hem, and one side seam. Exclude the second side seam. Sew at 5/8" seam allowance. 

STEP 6

Clip round edges (collar, armholes, and bottom of front pieces).

STEP 7

Next, pull the vest through the side seam opening to expose the right sides.

STEP 8

On the side seam that has been left open, pin the outer edges of fabric with right sides together. Sew at 5/8" seam allowance without catching the lining.

STEP 9

Tuck in the lining of the side seam and edge stitch the opening. You also have the option of hand sewing the opening using the hand sewing needle and thread.


#DIYeverything

Published in LoveSewing Magazine on February 17, 2014

Make It Yourself: Cropped Sweatshirt

Reconstruct your old sweatshirts into cropped tops with a twist! Use contrast fabric to make the sleeves and sweater details stand out. One-of-a-kind for sure!

SUPPLIES

• 3 old sweatshirts
• Seam ripper
• Pins
• Scissors

INSTRUCTIONS

STEP 1
Carefully remove the collar binding (1), hem (2), and sleeve cuffs (3) from one sweater using a seam ripper. Then remove the sleeves (4) from the second sweater. Lastly, remove all of the above (1-4) from the third sweater (this will be the final sweater body).


STEP 2
Pin one sleeve to the armhole and then serge around to attach. Repeat this step for the second sleeve. TIP: To prevent jersey fabric from stretching out, carefully feed it into the serger and avoid pulling or tugging on the fabric.


STEP 3
Pin collar binding to collar and serge around.


STEP 4
Pin one sleeve cuff to the sleeve hem and serge to attach, and then repeat for the second sleeve.


*Mix and match the leftover sweatshirt pieces to compete two more tops. Keep them for yourself or gift to friends!

PUBLISHED IN LOVESEWING MAGAZINE ON JANUARY 27, 2014

DIY: Copy Your Clothes

Making patterns from scratch might, at first, seem daunting and time-consuming. It certainly does take awhile to perfect, but, in the end, having the ability to create a pattern suited specifically and only for your body is a great reward and a highly-coveted skill. And like anything else, once you’ve made a few (patterns), you will find your groove and actually look forward to making more.

Before diving into scratch-making patterns, though, try making patterns from an existing garment you own as a warm-up for the real thing. Register for a Copy Your Clothes course at The Sewing Studio and learn to create a pattern from two existing garments. You will get to recreate your favourite item(s) and learn the basics of pattern making. The clothing you choose to copy will stay perfectly intact and what’s even better – the pattern you draft will be reusable. Woot! So if you want to make that black pencil skirt out of a cheetah print fabric, the same fabric as the one you own, or even a Valentine’s Day version (with printed hearts and roses, of course), the choice is yours, Cupid.

Copy Your Clothes is an intermediate course and runs for four weeks. Each week, you will attend a two-hour class filled with drafting paper, straight and curved rulers, the sharpest pencils you have ever seen, and a few other like-minded individuals who are probably there for the same reasons you are. Your instructor will most likely be totally awesome. Hey, I’m just speaking from experience. You’ll have to go and see for yourself.

Knowing how to make patterns gives you the freedom to choose fabrics according to your style and, more importantly, to create clothing which will suit your body shape. Total customization!  

 PUBLISHED IN LOVESEWING MAGAZINE ON JANUARY 22, 2014